Volume 11, Issue 3 - September 2011
Download (4.654KB, PDF) |
- Abstract / Resumo
- References / Bibliografia
- Citations / Citações
Revista de Gestão Costeira Integrada
Volume 11, Número 3, Setembro 2011, Páginas 283-296
DOI: 10.5894/rgci269
Submissao: 22 Março 2011; Avaliacao: 10 Maio 2011; Recepcao da versao
revista: 8 Julho 2011; Aceitacao: 24 Agosto 2011; Disponibilizacao
on-line: 8 Setembro 2011
Artigo decorrente da comunicação efectuada no MEC 2011 - Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira, 3 a 4 de Fevereiro de 2011, Lisboa, Portugal
Análise comparativa entre estimativas do modelo SWAN e medições de agitação marítima efectuadas na Praia da Amoreira, Portugal
Comparative analysis between SWAN’s numerical estimates and sea wave measurements made at the Amoreira’s Beach, Portugal
Rui Capitão @, 1, Conceição Fortes 1
@ - Autor correspondente
1 - Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, LNEC, Departamento de
Hidráulica e Ambiente, Núcleo de Portos e Estruturas Marítimas, Av. do
Brasil, 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal..
e-mails: rcapitao@lnec.pt, jfortes@lnec.pt
RESUMO
Neste trabalho, analisa-se o desempenho do modelo numérico SWAN (Booij
et al., 1999) na caracterização da agitação marítima na zona costeira
da praia da Amoreira, em Aljezur, Algarve. Para este efeito, efectua-se
uma análise comparativa entre as medições de agitação marítima
realizadas na Praia da Amoreira e as estimativas produzidas por esse
modelo. Assim, partindo dos resultados do modelo regional de previsão
da agitação marítima, WAVEWATCH III, Tolman (1999, 2002), para os dias
em que foram realizadas as medições in-situ, efectuaram-se cálculos com
o modelo SWAN, obtendo-se nos locais de medição valores de altura
significativa, período de pico e período médio. A comparação das
simulações numéricas com os dados medidos permitiu avaliar o desempenho
do modelo numérico e reforçar a confiança que já existia neste modelo
na sua utilização em estudos de morfodinâmica e dinâmica costeira.
Palavras-chave: Ribeira de Aljezur (Portugal), Medições in-situ, Modelação numérica, SWAN
ABSTRACT
The understanding of hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and fecal
contamination of intermittent coastal streams encompasses an
interdisciplinary study that integrates three different methodologies,
although complementary: acquisition of field data, laboratory
investigation and numerical modeling. The results of this methodology
in the study area, the Ribeira de Aljezur, will enable the assessment
of the relative importance of various forcings on the morphology of the
system and its impact on the water quality of generic coastal streams.
In this work a sea wave characterization is made on the
intermittent-type Aljezur stream, Algarve, Portugal, to understand the
hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and fecal contamination effects, as well
as its impact both on the water quality and on the evolution of the
bottom and of the water exchanges in the region under study. Thus,
in-situ measurements of sea waves were made using pressure transducers
at points near the mouth of the river and on the Amoreira’s Beach, at
the mouth of Aljezur stream. Numerical modeling was also employed to
obtain a spatial characterization of the study area, through the use of
SWAN numerical model (Booij et al., 1999). This model enables sea-wave
generation, propagation and dissipation based on the wave action
balance equation and is used to propagate sea waves from offshore up to
the shoreline, taking into account the major physical processes of wave
refraction, diffraction and shoaling due to bottom depth variation and
to the presence of currents. It also includes wind induced wave growth,
wave breaking due to bottom variation and to whitecapping, energy
dissipation by bottom friction, wave blocking and reflection by
opposing currents as well as wave transmission.
In order to evaluate the performance of this numerical model to
characterize the sea waves at this beach, and to get even more
confidence on this well-known model, currently used in many studies of
coastal morphodynamics and long-term dynamics, a comparative analysis
between measurements of sea waves made at Amoreira beach and the
estimates produced by this model was performed. Thus, based on the
results of the regional model prediction of sea waves, WAVEWATCH III,
Tolman (1999, 2002), and for the days where in-situ measurements were
taken, calculations were made with the SWAN model, resulting in
significant wave heights, peak periods and mean periods for an area
adjacent to the Amoreira beach, where those measurements were taken. A
comparison of numerical simulations with the measured data allowed the
evaluation of the behavior of the numerical model to simulate the
propagation of sea waves on the beach.
In this work, the measurement campaigns, the analysis of the data
obtained at the measuring campaigns and the application made with SWAN
model to characterize the wave field generated by the wind at the study
area were described and a comparison of numerical simulations with the
in-situ measured data allowed the evaluation of the performance of the
SWAN model for this location, guaranteeing even more confidence in its
use in studies of morphodynamics and coastal dynamics.
Keywords: Ribeira de Aljezur (Portugal), in-situ measurements, Numerical modeling, SWAN
Bendat,
J.S.; Piersol, A.G. (1986) - Random Data. Analysis and Measurement
Procedures. 2nd Edition, 566p., John Wiley & Sons, New York, U.S.A.
ISBN: 0-471-04000-2
Bishop, C.; Donelan, M. (1987) - Measuring waves with pressure transducers. Coastal Engineering, 11(4):309-328. DOI:10.1016/0378-3839(87)90031-7.
Booij,
N.; Ris, R.C.; Holthuijsen, L.H. (1999) - A third-generation wave model
for coastal regions, Part I, Model description and validation. Journal
of Geophysical Research, 104(C4):7649-7666.
DOI:10.1029/98JC02622.
Capitão,
R.; Fortes, C.J.E.M.; Carvalho, F.; Coli, A.B.; Pinheiro, L.V. (2006) -
Wave Regime Characterization on the Portuguese Coast using Hindcast and
Wave Propagation Models. Coastal Engineering 2006: Proceedings of the
30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1:603-615. DOI:10.1142/9789812709554_0052.
Capitão,
R.; Fortes, C.J.E.M.; Santos, J.A.; Pinheiro, L.V. (2009) - In-situ and
Model Wave Characterization at the Alfeite Beach. Journal of Coastal
Research, ISSN 0749-0258. SI56(ICS2009 Proceedings):168-172. Disponível
em
http://e-geo.fcsh.unl.pt/ICS2009/_docs/ICS2009_Volume_I/
168.172_R.Capitao_ICS2009.pdf.
Carvalho,
M.M. (1989) - Sea wave simulation. In: R. Martins (ed.), Recent
Advances in Hydraulic Physical Modelling, pp. 447-502, Kluwer Academic
Publishers, Dordrecht, Holanda. ISBN: 0-7923-0196-X.
Goda,
Y. (1985) - Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures. 444p.
University of Tokyo Press, Toquio, Japão. ISBN: 981-02-3256-X.
GODAE (2010) - Global Ocean Data Assimilation Experiment, U.S. Navy, Monterey, CA, USA. Disponível em http://www.usgodae.org/.
Guilherme,
L.; Santos, J.A.; Fortes, C.J.E.M.; Simões, A. (2009) - Validação da
metodologia utilizada para a previsão da agitação marítima implementada
no projecto MOIA. Congreso de Métodos Numéricos en Ingeniería 2009, pp
435 (CDRom), Barcelona, Spain. ISBN: 978-84-96736-66-5.
Hasselmann,
K.; Barnett, T.P.; Bouws, E.; Carlson, H.; Cartwright, D.E.; Enke,
K. ; Ewing, J.A. ; Gienapp, H. ; Hasselmann, D.E. ;
Kruseman, P. ; Meerburg, A. ; Mller, P.; Olbers, D.J. ;
Richter, K. ; Sell, W. ; Walden, H. (1973) - Measurements of
Wind-Wave Growth and Swell Decay During the Joing NorthSea Wave Project
(JONSWAP), Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift, A8(12).
Lee,
D.; Wang, H. (1984) - Measurement of surface waves from subsurface
gauge. In: B.L. Edge (ed.), Coastal Engineering 1984: Proceedings of
the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 271-286,
ASCE, New York, NY, U.S.A..
ISBN: 9780872624382.
Pires-Silva,
A.A., Makararynskyy, O.; Monbaliu, J.; Ventura-Soares, C.; Coelho, E.
(2002) - WAM/SWAN Simulations in an Open Coast: Comparisons with ADCP
Measurements. Proc. of the 6th Int. Symposium Littoral 2002,
pp.169-173, Porto, Portugal.
Rusu, L.,
Pilar, P.; Guedes Soares, C. (2005a) - Reanalysis of the wave
conditions in the approaches to the Portuguese port of Sines, In: C.
Guedes Soares, Y. Garbatov & N Fonseca (eds.), Maritime
Transportation and Exploitation of Ocean and Coastal Resources, Vol. 2,
pp. 1137-1142, Francis & Taylor Group, Lisboa, Portugal.
Rusu,
L., Pilar, P.; Guedes Soares, C. (2005b) - Hindcasts of the Wave
Conditions in Approaches to Ports of the North of Portugal, Proceedings
Fifth International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis
(WAVES 2005), CD edition, 9p., Madrid, Espanha.
Rusu,
L., Pilar, P.; Guedes Soares, C. (2008a) - Evaluation of the wave
conditions in Madeira Archipelago with spectral models. Ocean
Engineering, 35(13):1357-1371. DOI:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2008.05.007.
Rusu,
L., Pilar, P.; Guedes Soares, C. (2008b) - Hindcast of the wave
conditions along the west Iberian coast. Coastal Engineering,
55(11):906-919. DOI:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.029.
Rusu,
L., Pilar, P.; Guedes Soares, C. (2009) - Influence of wind resolution
on the prediction of waves generated in a estuary. Journal of Coastal
Research, SI56(ICS2009 Proceedings):1419-1423. Disponível em http://e-geo.fcsh.unl.pt/ICS2009/_docs/ICS2009_Volume_II/
1419.1423_L.Rusu_ICS2009.pdf.
Rusu,
L.; Bernardino, M.; Guedes Soares, C. (2011) - Modelling the influence
of currents on wave propagation at the entrance of the Tagus estuary,
Ocean Engineering, 38(10):1174-1183.
DOI:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.05.016.
Santos,
J.A.; Coli, A.B.; Capitão, R.; Fortes, C.J.E.M. (2007) - Wave Forecast
at the Tagus Estuary by Using the SWAN Model. Proceedings of the
Seventeenth (2007) International Offshore and Polar Engineering
Conference. ISOPE, 2007. pp. 2348-2355. Cupertino, CA, U.S.A.
ISBN: 978-1-880653-68-5.
Santos,
J.A.; Guilherme, L.; Fortes, C.J.E.M.; Pinheiro, L.V.; Simões, A.
(2009) - Coupling Numerical Models for Wave Propagation in the MOIA
Package. Journal of Coastal Research, SI56(ICS2009
Proceedings):544-548. Disponível em
http://e-geo.fcsh.unl.pt/ICS2009/_docs/ICS2009_Volume_I/
544.548_J.A.Santos_ICS2009.pdf.
Silva,
F.; Pinto, J.P.; Almeida, S. (2009) - Operational wave forecast system
for the Portuguese Coast. Journal of Coastal Research. SI56(ICS2009
Proceedings):1055-1059, Disponível em
http://e-geo.fcsh.unl.pt/ICS2009/_docs/ICS2009_Volume_II/
1055.1059_ F.Sansana Silva_ICS2009.pdf.
Teles,
M.J.; Pires-Silva, A.A.; Belo-Pereira, M.; Fortes, C.J. (2009) - O
Modelo SWAN em Regime Não Estacionário: Sensibilidade à Resolução do
Campo de Ventos e às Condições Fronteira de Mar, Actas das 6as Jornadas
Portuguesas de Engenharia Costeira e Portuária, CD-ROM, Funchal,
Madeira, Portugal.
Tolman, H. L. (1999) -
User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III version 1.18,
110p., N.O.A.A., National Centers for Environmental Prediction. OMB
Technical Note 166. Camp Springs, MD, U.S.A.
Tolman, H. L. (2002) - User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III version 2.22. 133p., Technical Note, N.O.A.A., National Centers for Environmental Prediction. OMB Technical Note 222. Camp Springs, MD, U.S.A.
em construção